July 31: The Return Comparison

After enjoying Wednesday and Thursday in Miraflores, a very upscale part of Peru located along the coast, I returned home on a 6-hour flight from Lima Friday morning. Miraflores was great! We enjoyed the cool, humid weather and the oxygen-filled air. The culture was incredibly different from Cusco, feeling like the NYC of Peru and a drastic misrepresentation of the country as a whole. We enjoyed stepping into the Pacific Ocean for our first time, exploring the skyscraper-lined streets and the famous Miraflores water park, which features 13 extravagant fountains and a light show, projected animation on a spray of water.

I have been home now for over three days and am somewhat amazed by the sort of things that feel foreign or unusual to me after two months away. Here is my list of some of the differences I have noticed most:

1. Toilet paper vs. hygienic paper--In the US, toilet paper is appropriately named because it is placed in the toilet for disposal. In Peru, toilet paper is appropriately not called toilet paper because it is NOT placed in the toilet (due to the poor plumbing). As a result, I have been very resistant to return to the habit of placing toilet paper in the toilet. You'd think that that would be an easy thing to get used to again. 
2. Stairs: useful vs. breathtaking--Here, stairs are a way of getting somewhere, and are generally an unavoidable nuisance. In Cusco, though many times stairs are also useful and unavoidable, there are also many sets of stairs that lead you to beautiful, amazing places. That, along with the altitude, makes them quite breathtaking. 
3. Coffee: a strong, brewed beverage vs. flavored water--I love black coffee. I enjoy the rich, dark, bitter taste. In Cusco, when someone drank coffee, they took what I call good coffee, drown the coffee with an equal or greater amount of water and add several heaping spoonfuls of sugar...and that's coffee. 
4. Animals: deer vs. alpacas--Now, I drive down the street alert for the occasional deer to dart out in the road. In Peru, you drive/walk through the countryside hoping an alpaca (or llama) doesn't bump into you. 
5. Stars: "You mean, 'star'?"vs. Endless Galaxies--Even in Cusco, near the city, the stars were bright and plentiful. Particularly though, on the island in Lake Titicaca, I saw the most stars I'd ever seen in one night sky. And now I am here, where seeing 10 stars is a good night. 
6. MyFoodPlate: More than half fruits and vegetables vs. rice/potatoes--I'm sure you're all familiar with the recommendation to eat lots of fruits and vegetables in your daily diet as well as the risks of overconsumption of simple carbohydrates. In Cusco, the doctors did not ask if the patient was consuming his or her 5+ servings of fruits and vegetables daily but merely if he or she eats fruits and/or vegetables every day. Thus, it became a special celebration when more than 25% of what was on my plate contained vegetables. 
7. Car Horns: Form of Communication vs. Musical Instrument--I have become incredibly grateful for my Atlanta culture and road manners in terms of honking. Here, it is acceptable to use your horn to communicate simplistic messages to other drivers or pedestrians, mostly along the lines of "you shouldn't have done that" or "you're about to hit me or someone else" or "you need to pay attention." In Cusco, there is always a reason to use your horn. 2 honks means you're an available taxi--"Want a ride?!" One loud honk means "I just touched my brakes so I didn't hit you." Repeated loud honks mean "MOVE!" or honestly just, "I can't go anywhere and I'm frustrated." And if you don't have one of those reasons, did you know that your horn can also work as a musical instrument? In fact, almost every car horn has a different pitch, and it is excellent to demonstrate dissonance to every other person on the street! 
8. Car Alarms: Repetitive Beeping vs. Orchestral Song--You've heard a car alarm, haven't you? That annoying repeated beeping that never changes pitch and drags on and on and on. Fortunately, most cars are not that sensitive, except for that one that is noise-sensored and always seems to be at the fireworks show. Well in Peru, every car is extremely sensitive to touch, such that if you just happen to exhale on the side of a car, its alarm will sound. Because of this, I suppose car manufacturers did not want to bore the people with a normal, boring alarm, but instead went for the orchestral mashup of 4 very... lovely tunes. Click here for your very own sample! And for irony sake, the ambulances and firetrucks rarely make a sound even when their lights are flashing. (I was just informed that these car alarms are also available in the US--woohoo.)
9. Greetings: Habit without Meaning vs. Meaning without Habit--I have certainly missed walking my dogs and sharing a friendly greeting with every person I pass, regardless of how well I know them. In Cusco, it is rare to acknowledge someone you don't know, unless you happen to be someone who could potentially buy something from them. However, those people who do greet you really mean it. It is not just a formality--if they ask "how are you?", they wait for a response, and if you exchange a kiss on the cheek (a traditional greeting), that is practically a formal invitation to share your most recent life struggles or triumphs. It's a bit disappointing now, though I am receiving many more "hellos" and "how are you's?", for much fewer of these are genuine. 
10. Living to work vs. working to live--And the most notable and most saddening difference I have noticed is the difference in motivation and determination. Over just two months, I didn't realize how accustomed I'd become to a community of people who work merely to live until I got back to an entire population who appears to live merely to have a successful career. After becoming a part of a world of people in which family is a top priority along with traditions and culture, and for the most part live happy, low-stress lives, despite a lack of luxuries like large homes, personal transportation, advanced technology, opportunities for travel, developed medicine, leading education, safe water, and flushable toilet paper, to return to a world that now appears to be full of empty people whose top priority is making money or gaining power or reputation. If I had to sum up all I've learned in one thing, it would be to not take living for granted. And it's not just my life I should value, but the lives of all the people who pass through my life, especially those that take the time to invest in me, whether that be for a minute, a day, two months, or a life time. That means thinking beyond personal comforts and small success and failures and looking into relationships, quality time, and eternal impacts. 

So, yes, I love Cusco--complete with its beautiful mountains, water irregularities, strikes, incredible history, delicious cuisine, and exceptional people. I am forever grateful for the lessons I've learned, the experiences I've had, and the ways that I've changed, but home is home; it will always be home, and I'm glad to be back.

July 25: Sometimes Things Don't Go According to the Plan

Good evening from Cusco! Believe it or not, I am still in Cusco. Though the original plan was to travel all week with Lauren via bus, a few things have happened that have made it clear that bus is not the best way to travel right now. That being said, the past week has been filled with incredible moments (and some not-so-incredible moments).

Friday night came too quickly, as did having to say goodbye to my Cuscanean family, new friends, teachers, and co-workers. It was a bittersweet day, complete with many tears and photos. It is amazing how close relationships can form over a relatively short amount of time. No words can explain how grateful I am to have gotten to know so many amazing people over the past few weeks. All the staff at the clinic have been so supportive and friendly towards me, and I have loved my experience there and learned a lot. In fact, one of my hopes was to be able to poke someone with a needle (either an injection or blood test, etc.), and it just so happened that Friday, we went to a preschool to test the children for anemia (a prominent issue here), so I was able, on my last day, to a poke a few kids. ;-)

with Rosa

From left: Milagros, me, Lexi, Martha, Delia and Pamela

After the clinic, we spent some time in San Blas, the really classy area of town, before heading to Maximo for my last Spanish class. There, I said goodbye to Rosa, who has become not only an amazing teacher and tutor, but a friend and an excellent source of advice.

Then, we concluded our final evening in the town with ice cream and a last trip to San Cristobal church for the amazing city view before I headed home to finish packing, shower, eat and say goodbye. Of course, I had to say goodbye in the same condition as when I arrived...with no water. Haha, so no shower. But it didn't matter how dirty I was, we still hugged and cried as we said goodbye. I have loved every minute with the Morales family--the number of nights spent laughing, dancing, and eating in the kitchen, the number of celebrations, songs, cakes-for-breakfast, and love we have shared can not be documented by mere photos.

Also, a shout out to Lexi for truly being such an amazing friend, practically sister over the past 6 weeks. I don't know what I would have done without her keeping my company, listening to me, sharing my enthusiasm for musicals and medicine, providing sanity in the midst of craziness, tolerating the surprises and difficulties of our travels, and more.

And then, the adventure began. Lauren and I met at the bus station to board a Peru Hop bus to Puno, near Lake Titicaca. The trip started as expected, with an 8-hour, overnight bus ride. We arrived after some poor-quality sleep, ate breakfast, and awaited our ride for our 2-day tour of the islands in Lake Titicaca.

During this tour, we stopped by the famous floating islands where we enjoyed a reed-boat tour before traveling by boat for 3 hours to Amantani Island, where we spent the night with Kacy and her mom, Sylvia, (pictured) along with 3 other tourists. During the afternoon, we hiked up to Pachamama Temple to watch a beautiful sunset and see the view of both Peru and Bolivia. Then we went home for dinner before getting dressed up for the dance. Sunday, we woke up and visited Taquile Island, also beautiful, before taking the boat back to Puno. At 9:30pm (after my first shower in almost four days), we got picked up by the Peru Hop bus which would take us back to Cusco for our 5am arrival (change #1--we were supposed to travel to Huacachina, but an earthquake and landslide had blocked the road to Huacachina, so we had to change our route to go back through Cusco).

I'm going to skip the details of change #2. Basically, due to strikes and having some kind of digestive illness, the next 20 hours, spent walking and sitting on a bus, passed by miserably, and we finally arrived to Cusco at 4pm, 3 hours before we were supposed to take our next bus, and 11 hours after we were supposed to arrive. Due to the travel difficulties and illnesses, we decided to forget taking buses, and book a flight to Lima. Thus, tomorrow morning, we will fly to Lima, where we will spend a day before heading back to the US.

So, as a kind of unexpected gift, we have been able to spend another full day in Cusco, enjoying this amazing city and all it has to offer. Between walking around, shopping, eating great food, and playing cards--because it's always a good time for a game of Battle Solitaire--Lauren and I have thoroughly enjoyed our not-the-plan travels.

So all is good. We have put that bus ride behind us and are enjoying the last of our adventures in Peru.

July 17: At 4,000m, Closer to Heaven

This weekend consisted of the longest day ever, starting at 3am Saturday morning and ending at 9pm Sunday. Though exhausting, it was filled with so many blessings, and I can't imagine anything better for my last weekend in Cusco.

Saturday consisted of hiking Rainbow Mountain, which starts at about 4,300 meters (14,000 ft) and ends at 5,100 meters (16,700 ft). If you look up reviews on this Rainbow Mountain hike, you will find very different feedback; some describe it as the "hike from hell", that they almost died, and not rewarding at all, while others describe it as completely worthwhile and beautiful; nevertheless, everyone describes it as one of the most difficult treks they have done, not because of the terrain or the incline, but because of the altitude. My feedback: it was difficult, and even while walking at a very slow pace, I was out of breath. Somehow, we managed to get up to the top in less than 2 hours (we were actually surprised by how close it seemed), and when we arrived, the view was breathtaking. Here you are, standing at more than 5,000 meters, and if you look one way, you see this beautiful snow-covered mountain/glacier, and if you look the other way, you see this rainbow mountain chain. It is unreal! Unfortunately, you can't stay at the top long; they recommend 20 minutes max.

Saturday evening, we got back home around 7pm for a quick shower and dinner before we left to board a bus that would take us 3 hours to Paucartambo. We were heading there for two reasons: 1) for giant festival celebrating the Virgin Carmen and 2) for the Salida del Sol (famous beautiful sunrise) at Tres Cruces (3 Crosses). We took a bus for 9pm to 12:30am, and from Paucartambo we road in a van from 1am to 3am to arrive at Tres Cruces, where we watched the sunrise.

A little bit of background about this sunrise: there is a phenomenon that occurs in two places on Earth--Tres Cruces, Peru and somewhere in Japan. Basically, the viewpoint of the sunrise in Peru is so high and right next to the jungle, such that there is always a thick covering of clouds under you, like a sea of clouds. Because of this, with ideal weather conditions, the sun rises and reflects off the clouds above and below it, such that it appears to be three suns, and then comes together to form a giant cross of light. You are most likely to see this at a time near the winter solstice (June 21), but it is possible throughout June and July. In other words, this is not your ordinary sunrise.

Regardless, Lexi and I both love sunrises, and it was "vale la pena" (worthwhile) to skip a night of sleeping in a bed to have the opportunity to witness such a miraculous spectacle. The sunrise we saw was not quite perfect; as you can see in the photo, the full cross did not form, but the experience was amazing. If you've watched a fireworks show or a play or another performance, you've probably experienced that feeling of anticipation in a crowd; there's something powerful about united anticipation, and that was certainly present at the top of this mountain (at 4000 meters). For one, anyone crazy enough not to sleep but rather to go stand outside in the freezing cold at 4am to watch a sunrise has to really want to be there. It was fun to stand in the crowd of mostly natives to enjoy the sunrise, to applaud when the sun came over the horizon, and to stand, captivated in awe, with so many people.

Sunrises have always been meaningful to me, and this one was even more so. I love that Jesus, the Son of God, is also called the light of the world, which literally is the sun. I love that there are so many colors before the sunrise; there is such much beauty in how the one source of light bounces off so many particles in so many different ways that every color is produced, like a beautiful warning that the source of the light is coming soon. I love thinking about it in the sense that just like those particles, we, God's creations, have the ability to reflect His light to the world in different ways, producing different colors but an overall perfect depiction of the rainbow, a symbol of God's peace and promise. I love standing amidst people from all over the world, thinking about how this light unites us, despite differences, in anticipation. I love pondering this--glimpsing at an image of what I hope heaven will be like.

And my glimpse of heaven didn't stay there, at the top of the mountain. My day continued with a ride back down to Paucartambo where we met up with our Cusquenean family and extended family who had come for the festival. I must say, I was not a big fan of the festival; there were a lot of people, dances and costumes that appeared the same as those in Cusco, lots of alcohol, and it didn't seem to be very meaningful to the majority of the people. That being said, I really enjoyed being with the family, seeing how they celebrate together.

We only stayed at the festival until about noon, at which time, we headed back to the van they had brought. We got on the van, and they began to pass out forks and napkins--lunch time! And this was not your ordinary picnic--no sandwiches or bags of chips--but rather chicken with marinated vegetables and bread. Not the easiest thing to eat on a bus, but SO delicious!

After eating, we were ready to leave, but due to the small size of the town (and therefore, few streets), and the large number of cars and people at the festival, we couldn't leave. Cars could not go anywhere. So, we spent the next 2.5 hours in the car, waiting. To be clear, this really could've been a miserable experience--the van was hot and there wasn't anything to do or watch--but we had a great time! Between talking with some of the family I had not met before, laughing at Pecho's (the uncle) jokes, playing with Ale (4-year-old cousin) and Micaela (9-year-old cousin), and sleeping, the time passed fast.

By 4pm, we were on the road, heading back towards Cusco through the mountains and towns. We continued to have a good time in the van, and as I was thinking about how blessed I am to have been able to spend my time in Cusco with such an amazing family, someone shouted, "niños!" (which means kids). My first reaction was that we must be driving too fast because there are kids playing in the street. Sure enough, we slowed down, but then we stopped. Some of the ladies of the family were going through the bags of leftover food in the van, and then they got out with the food and started passing it out to the kids. About ten kids came empty handed and left with a hot dog or ham sandwich before we continued down the road. To see such generosity with the children absolutely warmed my heart, and I could do nothing but thank God for this opportunity. And their generosity didn't stop there. Down the road, we picked up a young woman and her child as well as an old man because they couldn't find a ride back into Cusco.

We ended the trip with a stop at a pollo a la brasa (basically rotisserie chicken) restaurant to celebrate Día de Pollo a la Brasa, where we enjoyed a family-style meal of chicken, french fries and salad. By the time we got home (8pm), my stomach was full and my heart was happy. It's hard to believe that my time here is coming to an end, but I could not be more grateful for the family I have become a part of and the beauty I have been able to witness.

July 13: Just 6 Hours: Strike, Sloth, and Summit

A lot can happen in 6 hours.

Background: July 12th and 13th: The entire population in all of the region of Cusco is on strike in order to protest against a governmental decision opposing the addition of a new international airport close to Cusco. (They want the airport) This means there are no buses and few taxis running, medical facilities are running on minimal staff, streets are closed, schools are closed, several businesses are closed, police are everywhere, and so are rioters. This means that it is difficult to travel long distances safely. So logically (<--sarcasm), we went to Tipon (~10 miles outside of Cusco) this morning.

7:15am: We walk out of the door of our house, up to the main road, where we observed that there were no buses running and very few cars. We decided to head towards the main part of the city to catch a ride to Tipon.

7:30am: We board a colectivo car to San Jeronimo, where we were supposed to catch a bus or another colectivo to Tipon.

7:45am: (in the car just outside of Cusco) Our taxi driver was forced to turn around and find another road due to protesters in the street.

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Well that wasn't too bad. We'll make it, no problem. 

8:00am: Our driver makes a U-turn, says we have arrived, and we get out of the car. Looking at the road we need to go down to get to Tipon, we see a mass of people running and screaming. There are rocks in the road. We decide to head up a hill to another road to pass the crowd. At the sound of yelling, we turn around. About 5 men are running with various items capable of doing damage (slashers, rocks, glass, etc.) towards a taxi that is dropping its passengers off. They are attempting to break the windows of the car and slash the tires as the taxi driver pulls away. 

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My life is in danger. That could've been us in that taxi. These people are crazy. Their actions don't make any sense. This is ridiculous.

8:20am: We have passed by the large crowd of protesters and found a group of taxis waiting to take people to Tipon. 

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Is this safe? Are more crazy protesters going to jump on us? 

We get in a taxi. A few minutes later, further down the road, there are more protesters. 

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¡Miércoles! Here we go again...

Our driver keeps going. Finally, he turns and we head back in the opposite direction, then get onto a highway which is covered in debris--rock, tires, glass--heading towards Tipon. 

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Free at last!!

8:45am: We arrive to Tipon. It's a mile uphill to our first destination, the Zoólogico Mundo Andino. There are no taxis.

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No problem. One mile--we've got this. Almost there. 

9:05am: We arrive on foot to the zoo, where we are kindly welcomed by the owner. We are the only visitors at the zoo. We climb the hill up to the first part of the zoo: owls, cat, eyeglass bear, monkeys. 

9:30am: The zookeeper opens up the parrot cage, tells Lexi to stand still with her arms out, and puts the parrot on her hand. We take pictures. The zookeeper climbs into the same cage and jumps out with a sloth. He comes over, puts the parrot on his hat, and places the sloth in Lexi's arms. A few minutes later, it is my turn, and he puts the sloth on me.

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Okay. I know some people who give pretty amazing hugs--just the right amount of tightness and warmth, a slight pat on the back, it lasts a bit longer than your everyday hug, but not awkwardly long. However, this sloth gave the best hug EVER, by far. And as I am thinking this and smiling and loving and cuddling the sloth...

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There's a parrot on my head now. 

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No big deal; I'm just standing in the middle of the most beautiful country in the world, on a mountain, in a zoo, having survived a riot, cuddling a sloth with a parrot on my head. Yeah. 

9:45am: The sloth is back in its cage now, slowly making its way to its bed. We're feeding monkeys corn. 

9:55am: The zookeeper pulls out his keys at the door of the condor cage. 

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Surely there's a big lock on the cage for a reason.

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He opens the door. 

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We're going in? With that huge, unpredictable bird?

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He says we're going to take pictures and shows me where to sit. Sure enough, 10 minutes later, we've had an entire photography session, selfies and all, with a well-trained condor. 

10:10am: We continue up through the zoo to say hello to the vicuñas and pumas. 

10:30am: We leave the zoo and continue up the hill to the ruins. The zookeeper advises us to keep walking, find the path, and head up the mountain. It should take 20-30 minutes. 

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No problem. It's only a mile or so. Easy.

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Wow this is steep. That mountain is pretty high up there. Almost there...

10:53am: Out of breath and exhausted, we arrive at the top of a mountain at the Tipon ruins. We walk through the Tipon ruins.

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These are some of the most beautiful ruins I have seen here. Originally, they served as agricultural terraces as well as a location for celebrations during the year. We had them practically to our selves because no one else was crazy enough to try to travel out of Cusco today. It was amazing!

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There are more ruins at the top of another mountain. It's probably at 10-15 minute walk. 

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My legs are tired. I'm hot and tired. 

This might be the only time in my life I am here. It's less than a mile. Let's do it.

11:35am: We head up the mountain.

11:45am: We arrive to the summit, another temple of the sun, though this one has been destroyed. A beautiful view of the valley. 

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Definitely worth all the climbing.

12:00pm: Time to head home. 

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Back down the mountains, to the street, in a car, through the protests, in a car, by foot. 

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My FitBit buzzes--16,000 steps completed, before we've turned to head back. 

12:15pm: A taxi honks at the bottom of the mountain.

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A TAXI!!! 

12:25pm: We are back at the main road having been advised by our taxi driver not to pay more than 4 soles per person for a ride back to San Jeronimo. We stand at the road.

12:35pm: We are still standing on the side of the road, having seen a mere 4, very full taxis. 

12:40pm: We are finally in a taxi, having agreed to pay 10 soles per person. 

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So much for no more than 4 soles. 

12:55pm: Back at the protests. They've settled down for the most part. 

13:05pm: In another taxi, heading for the centro. 

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PHEW! WE'RE GONNA MAKE IT BACK!

13:15pm: The taxi stops. He says this is where we get out. 

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WHAT?! This is not the center of the city. 

We're a mile away. 

A mile. That's nothing!

13:30pm: We're sitting in a lunch restaurant. 

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HOORAY!! 

That's all folks. What a day! And all before lunch. 

June 9: DON'T FALL!!!

Happy Sunday! I hope you've had a nice weekend. We had a truly amazing experience at Machu Picchu and the other Incan ruins and landmarks over the past few days. Here is a review of what we did and my recommendations for anyone who may consider traveling to Machu Picchu in the future.

On Friday, we left Cusco on a tour bus to Chinchero, Maras, Moray, and Ollaytatambo at 6:45am. We arrived to Chinchero around 8am, where we enjoyed a tour of the ruins as well as a textile demonstration at a local shop. It was fascinating to see how the women transformed the alpaca fur to beautifully and naturally colored alpaca yarn. All of the dyes are produced from plants or insects. My favorite dye, and the most well-known, is the red dye from an insect, the cochineal, which lives on a particular species of cactus. When alive, the cochineal appears white-green, but when it is squished, it becomes a rich red/purple that can be mixed with a number of different things to produce orange, red and purple dyes.

After Chinchero, we went to Moray, which consists of famous ruins of an Incan experimentation center for acclimating crops to different climates. It consists of four areas, each made up of several levels of circular terraces and focused on a specific climate region. For instance, one area (pictured) was protected from wind on all sides and went the deepest; this area was used for valley crops--for instance, coca and avocados--which need warmer, more humid climates. Another area was exposed to strong winds, and this was used for many types of potatoes and quinoa, which grow best at high altitudes where it is chillier and windier. The Incas used these to determine the best location to grow certain crops as well as to attempt to acclimatize the crops so that they could be grown in different areas.

Following Moray, we traveled to Maras, the salt mines, which I still love for their beauty and simplicity. It is the perfect example of how basic technology can make the best use of the natural resources. The water flows in carrying high concentrations of salt, and is channeled to fill shallow pools. During the dry season (now), these pools dry out, leaving 3 layers of salt; the bottom layer of salt is used for medicinal bath purposes, the middle layer for feeding animals, and the top layer for human consumption. Something unique to Maras is that it is still being used for its initial purpose, and still being maintained and utilized by its original population with original methods, for the most part.

After Maras, we passed through Urubamba for a delicious buffet of traditional Peruvian food and a variety of vegetables before heading to Ollaytatambo, our last stop. At Ollaytatambo, we visited the ruins, which involved a steep stair climb to the top to visit the Temple of the Sun. The ruins are significant because they are the location of a battle between the Spanish and the Incas in which the Inca town leader was forced to run from the city. Ollaytatambo is located at the intersection of two valleys; thus, he had two ways to run. One, the short way, towards Machu Picchu, and the other, the long way, to another area. Which way did he go? The long way. And thus, the Spanish never found Machu Picchu.

After Ollaytatambo, we said goodbye to our tour group, who was heading to Pisac, so that we could board our train to Aguas Calientes, the city at the base of Machu Picchu. As I mentioned before, I was super excited to ride on a train, and it absolutely lived up to my expectations (except we didn't arrive at Hogwarts). We took Inca Rail executive train, which provided comfortable seats around tables as well as a snack and drink for the hour and a half ride. It was great service and appeared slightly nicer than Peru Rail trains we saw, which cost the same amount. I'd highly recommend Inca Rail to anyone taking the train to Aguas Calientes.

We arrived to Aguas Calientes a little after 6pm and went to find our hostel. We stayed in Pirwa hostels, which was cheap and provided exactly what we needed (and nothing more). Later, we met with our tour guide for the next day at Machu Picchu and bought our bus tickets to go to Machu Picchu. We enjoyed dinner at a nearby restaurant before heading to bed to prepare for the big day on Saturday.

Saturday, we woke up at 5am and were out the door by 5:20, picking up our "snack breakfast" from the hostel desk. This "snack" was well stocked with a bologna and cheese sandwich, banana, juice box, crackers, and a candy bar. We met up with our tour group and went to wait in line for the bus. The line for the bus was long, but the time passed quickly. For the first 15 minutes, we watched the action happening across the stream, where a man had fallen several stories into the rocky stream. Several men had climbed down and were working to pull him up, out of the stream. Fortunately, the man began to move on the way out and was taken to get medical attention. After that, we talked with a man and his 11-year-old daughter. They were from Lima, and we enjoyed chatting in English and Spanish with them. They were super friendly, and it was fun to exchange our cultural experiences with them. My favorite part was hearing that the girl cared most about practicing English so that she could understand the Full/Fuller House episodes she watches on Netflix!

We boarded the bus around 7:10, about an hour and a half after we'd gotten in line. The bus ride took about 20 minutes, winding up the mountain, before arriving at Machu Picchu, where we met our actual guide. We went with him and a group of about 15 people through the ruins, taking pictures and hearing the history along the way. It was very busy in the ruins at this time but still an enjoyable experience. Also, it was the perfect day weather-wise. The sky was a vibrant blue with a few white clouds; it was warm but not hot, and slightly breezy. Our tour lasted about an hour and a half which is when we headed up to the starting point of our hike up Mountain Machu Picchu.

For clarification, Mountain Machu Picchu is not the one commonly seen in photos. That is Hauyna Picchu. Hauyna Picchu is smaller but has a steeper, narrower path, limiting the number of tickets sold. Machu Picchu Mountain is said to be a prettier view of the ruins, and you can capture Hauyna Picchu in your photos. Machu Picchu is higher, at 3,099 meters, whereas Hauyna Picchu stands at about 2,720 meters. For reference, the lowest point of the Machu Picchu ruins is about 2,400 meters.

The hike up Mountain Machu Picchu was the hardest and scariest thing I have ever done. I didn't read much about it before hiking...maybe I should have, because it is not the best for anyone who is scared of heights (like me). There are several parts that are staircases on the side of the mountain with no railing. These stairs are uneven and unlevel and on average, about 4 feet across. The hike takes most people an hour or two, and between physical and psychological difficulty, it took me about an hour and half. When I finally made it to the top, I was even more terrified because the platform was crowded, had no rails, and at times was only 4-5 feet wide. I actually crawled across the path between the larger platforms, during which I overheard the security guard telling my friends in broken English, "photo. photo. take photo." And they did. ;-)

Nevertheless, it was terrifying, but I've almost decided that it was worth it. I'd never do it again, but I'm grateful I pushed through and did it this time. If you're considering going to Machu Picchu and you're in pretty good physical shape, I'd recommend it. Even if you don't make it to the top, there are beautiful views along the way.

After hiking, we took a few more pictures and visited with some llamas before heading back to Aguas Calientes for a big, well-earned lunch and a relaxing (and chilly) visit to the hot springs. It was nice to go to the hot springs, but I recommend going when it is warmer outside (not at night) because the water isn't that warm, more like lukewarm bath water. And, after a much needed shower, pizza, and ice cream, we headed to bed for the night (before 9pm).

This morning we enjoyed breakfast at the hostel, a lovely train ride, and a quick visit to Ollaytatambo again, before heading back to Cusco in a taxi. To be honest, there isn't a lot to see in Ollaytatambo if you have already been to the ruins and don't want to hike up mountains. There were a few shops and markets that are cute but more expensive than in Cusco. We did enjoy a nice snack/brunch in Coffee Tree Cafe, where we were also able to store our backpacks, and we also found an excellent nonprofit, Awamaki, which works with surrounding villages and sells handmade woven products. And, the girl working in the shop is a graduate from University of Maryland (where Lexi goes to school) and from Atlanta, a graduate from Etowah High School, so it was fun talking to her.

Overall, it was a great, exhausting weekend! I am back up in Cusco now, resting for the week ahead and catching up with my family here. If you are planning to go on a trip to Machu Picchu, or know of someone who is, here are my tips:

1. If you're a student, make sure to get your ISIC card, which can be bought online ($20) or in Cusco ($12) with the required documents (passport, photo, evidence of enrollment in a college). This provides AMAZING discounts for Machu Picchu and the tourist ticket, along with other benefits.
2. If you want to hike Hauyna Picchu, you must buy your tickets at least two months ahead of time because they sell out quickly. 
3. Train tickets are easy to buy online; I recommend Inca Rail. We bought our Machu Picchu tickets at the official office in Cusco, which was easy and pretty quick. 
4. How to get to and from Machu Picchu from Cusco:
1. Take a taxi or colectivo from Cusco to Ollaytatambo. If you want to visit the different ruins and stops like we did, you can book a tour with almost any travel agency for S/. 85 (includes buffet lunch--worth it!) and request to stay in Ollaytatambo and not go to Pisac. Or, you can go to the Ollaytatambo bus station the morning of, and find a private taxi/tour guide to drive you (~S/.65/person, no lunch). If you don't want the extra destinations, you can find a taxi or a collectivo at the Ollaytatambo bus stations in Cusco for ~S/.10 per person. You could also take the train from Cusco straight to Aguas Calientes, but this is expensive. 
2. Take the train from Ollaytatambo to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Village). The train is fun, quick, clean, comfortable, but expensive ($55-$90 per ticket, one way). The only other option is to ride from Cusco to Hidroelectrica and walk about 2-3 hours to Aguas Calientes. 
3. Walk or take the bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu Ruins. It takes about the same amount of time to do either. 1.5 hours to walk, and 1.5 hours to wait in line and ride on the bus. If you are hiking Machu Picchu Mountain or Huayna Picchu, I recommend you take the bus both ways because you will probably not have the energy to do both. 
1. If you take the bus, you can purchase your tickets ($12 per person per way) when you arrive to Aguas Calientes. I recommend you buy them when you arrive to Aguas Calientes. We bought ours the night before going to the ruins. 
2. There isn't a good way to avoid the line for the bus, as it forms very early in the morning, so embrace it (it's a great opportunity to talk to people!) or walk.  
4. Getting back: walk or bus from Aguas Calientes. Train to Ollaytatambo where you can find plenty of taxi drivers and colectivos right by the train station, ready to offer you a ride for S/.10-15/person. 
5. Going to the Machu Picchu: 
1. Pack snacks and plenty of water. They do not sell food inside of Machu Picchu, though there is a cafe just outside (and you can reenter the park). 
2. Go to the bathroom before you enter. It costs S/. 1 just outside of the park, and there are no bathrooms inside. 
3. Wear and bring sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses. There is very little shade.
4. If you are hiking, bring bug spray. I got several bug bites, even with bug spray. 
5. During the dry season, the best time of day to be at Machu Picchu is in the morning. This is also when it is the most crowded...
6. I recommend having a tour guide at Machu Picchu, unless you are very familiar with the history. You can book a guide in advance in Cusco or Aguas Calientes, or find a private guide while you are in line for the bus (though I only saw a few guides there). We paid S/. 30 per person for an English-speaking guide for a group of 10-15 people. Some guides meet in Aguas Calientes and take the bus as a group, and others meet at the ruins, giving you the option to take the bus or walk. 
6. In Aguas Calientes:
1. Everything is more expensive, and pretty much every restaurant sells the same, semi-decent food, except for some of the really fancy restaurants. 
2. The hot springs are nice, but not worth going out of your way for. They cost S/. 20 per person, and lockers are provided for free. I recommend you bring sandals and a towel with you, as well as a change of clothes (there are changing rooms). I did not have sandals, so I went barefoot on the slippery path to the pools, and I took my towel from my hostel. If you don't have something, there are several shops near the hot springs selling/renting towels, bathing suits, and sandals. 

July 6: Everyone Is on Strike!

Good evening! I am anxiously awaiting my trip this weekend--tomorrow we leave for tours around Chinchero, Maras, Moray, Urubamba, and Ollayantatambo from which we head on a train to Aguas Calientes where we will spend the night before heading to Machu Picchu Saturday morning. To be honest, I am currently most excited for the train ride, but going to one of the wonders of the world comes in close second. Before I head off into this trip, here's a quick summary of the past week:

Tuesday (Happy Birthday USA!), we arrived to work to find a poster saying (translated) "Indefinite Strike of Doctors. There is no medical attention." And since Tuesday, the doctors have not been working. And the doctors aren't the only ones striking, the public school teachers are also on strike (and have been for almost one month!)

So, why are they striking and what kind of impact does this have on the community?

The doctors and teachers are striking because their pay is unreasonably low given the cost of their education and the impact and effort of their work. The doctors payed S/. 1500 (~$500) per month for their education, and receive on average, S/. 2000 (~$650) per month for their work. Teachers earn a monthly salary of about S/. 1200 (~$400), while the minister of education receives S/. 30000 ($10,000) per month. As a comparison, the average salary in Cusco is S/. 800 ($250) per month and police officers earn more than S/. 30000 per month. The money isn't fairly distributed, but this isn't an easy problem to fix.

The strikes are occurring throughout the country of Peru. This means that kids have been out of school for almost a month, and that no one in the country is able to receive medical treatment except for emergencies at the hospital and at private clinics. However, medical treatment is different from health attention; the nurses are still working, and the dentist, obstetricians, and psychologists at our clinic are still working too. This means that children are still coming in for their check-ups and vaccinations, soon-to-be-mothers are coming in for their control appointments, etc. However, the people who usually come to the doctor for medical attention--people with cold/flu symptoms, infected wounds, headaches, etc.--are not receiving care.

For me, this means that the workload at the clinic has been light and variable. On Tuesday, there were almost no patients for any of the departments, but now word is spreading that the clinic is still open for everything but medical consultation, so the usual amount of patients are arriving to each of the specialties. It will be interesting to see how long the strike will last and what the result will be (if any).

As for other things,  Lexi and I enjoyed hosting a 4th of July celebration here for our family. This consisted of searching the supermarket for s'mores and burger supplies, followed by cooking an "American" meal at our house which consisted of hamburgers, Pringles, and french fries. The meal began by us singing the national anthem and performing the "American" dance of "Cotton Eye Joe." Soon after, we live-streamed the Disney and Atlanta fireworks and made s'mores over the open flame of the stove. It was by far the coldest 4th of July I've experienced, but also one of the most memorable!

I hope you also had a great Independence Day celebration! I certainly appreciate the stability of our government and the freedoms we have!

July 3: How'd It Get to Be July?

Time is speeding up, and the clock is counting down quickly! I've now been here for a little over four weeks, and I have less than four weeks before I am home. This week has flown by, and along the way, has had its own fair share of new experiences.

Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday, I had relatively normal days. The clinic was very busy, and because of this, I had the chance to do and see a lot. I worked with the pediatric nurses, which involved holding children, listening to their hearts and lungs, and entertaining them. I worked with the obstetrician, helping to take weights and blood pressures and fill out paperwork. I worked with the main doctor, helping with paperwork and with the children who were the patients or related to the patient. I worked with the topical nurse, observing "operations" like cleaning infected wounds, removing stitches, etc. All of this was excellent exposure to the health situation here, for better or worse. It was sad to me because I've seen what it could be. I know there are better ways of doing things, of treating diseases, sharing information, and maintaining health, so it is hard not to be frustrated that they don't have that. It is difficult to watch a child suffering the pain of an operation on his finger to clean a minor cut, when I know the infection could easily have been prevented in the US and numbing medication would have been available if not. It's frustrating to see them prescribe antibiotics for EVERYTHING, and scary to think of the consequences of this. It's sad to meet a pregnant 17-year-old girl who is scared and alone and trying her best to care for herself and her child, but encouraging to see a doctor step above her role as a health professional and fill the position of a mom--some things don't change between hemispheres.

Children seem to be some of the most consistent things between cultures. On Monday night, Lexi and I went to an elementary school's show of an Incan ritual celebrating the god of nature. It was fun to feel the familiar atmosphere of proud parents, slightly anxious students, and anticipation. Though the dances and storyline were very different from anything I'd witnessed, there were still many similarities, and it was fun to take part in this.


On Thursday, Pope's Day, we had the day off of work and went to the fair which is in town for a week or two. I love fairs! And they are a great opportunity to witness different components of a larger community coming together. Similar to fairs in the US, there were sketchy rides, inflatables, and lots of fried food. There were exhibits of local artisan goods, animals, and governmental educational exhibits. My favorite section was the honey, chocolate, and coffee area--where there were lots of free samples. My lunch ended up consisting of ice cream, honey samples, coffee samples, chocolate samples, a roll of bread, and more ice cream...followed by vegetable soup a few hours later--it is all about balance, right? Most people enjoy a full meal at the fair, usually consisting of fried or grilled meat, fried potatoes, rice and soup.

Friday, I was very excited to welcome my friend Lauren, from the US, to Maximo and to Cusco. She will be here for the next three weeks working on a project involving children. She is staying at another house with another family and many other students (like 15!).

Friday night, Lexi, Henrietta and I accompanied Martha to her free "Crossfit" class. It was outside, in the 40F air, from 8-9pm and consisted of intense interval training. We had a good time with it, but I found some muscles in my legs that I apparently don't use regularly, and they spent all weekend reminding me what I did to them. ;-)

On Saturday, my day started early with helping the family prepare for the baby shower Martha was catering during the day. There was pink everywhere! Pink cake balls (which they call pot-cakes here), pink candy-covered apples, pink treat boxes filled with alfajores, cookies with pink bows, pink cupcakes, and of course a pink cake with a cute baby girl on it. And since there clearly were not enough sweets around the house, I made decadent chocolate cheesecake for them! That was a fun process--it is really hard to find chocolate here. In the grocery store, the only chocolate is for making hot chocolate, so it generally has some vitamin additives and some other weird things. Nevertheless, I'd say the cheesecake was a success, and Martha may be adding it to the list of things the can prepare for parties!

During the day Saturday, Lexi and I enjoyed a walking tour with Free Walking Tours Cusco to learn more about the Incan history in Cusco. Along the way, we also had the opportunity to sample alpaca meat, which tastes like steak, along with other free drinks and snacks! And our tour guide introduced us to the shop where many shopkeepers buy their items--aka, the cheapest place to buy things! And to make the day better and sweeter, Lauren joined Lexi and I for a chocolate workshop, "From Bean to Bar" at the Museo de Choco. I highly recommend the workshop, which is available at most Museos de Choco (which are all over South and Central America). We got to practice peeling, roasting and grinding cocoa beans which we used to make several traditional drinks, and then, we used their delicious, already-made chocolate and toppings to mold our own chocolate candies.

Then, on Sunday, Lexi and I traveled to Pisac, a city about 45 minutes away by colectivo (a full van of people, the easiest and cheapest way to travel).  On the way there, we stopped by the Ccochahuasi Animal Sanctuary to experience some really unique animals. We had up-close experiences with several types of monkeys, vicuñas, llamas, alpacas, osos antiojos (spectacled bear), condors, mountain cats, pumas, and guinea pigs. This was one of the coolest animal-encounters I have had, and it is a great organization, taking in abandoned or injured animals and caring for them and helping them recuperate. One of the saddest stories of the animals was of the puma family. The mom and dad puma were rescued from a discoteca where they had been drugged and maltreated as a spectacle for their customers!

In Pisac, we enjoyed the huge artisan market where we shopped for about 8 hours. We also found a delicious restaurant, Ulrike's Cafe, for lunch and refound it for dessert! I enjoyed a delicious salad, as well as chocolate lava cake with ice cream. No complaints. And the market was really cool, hosting many talented artists. While a lot of the items were the same, manufactured goods that are in every shop in Cusco, there were several artists with genuinely hand-made goods, and it was amazing to see the time and energy these artists put into their work. My favorite part was talking to the different artists and shopkeepers about why they do what they do, how they got started, what their favorite is, etc.  

In summary, I'm still loving it here, and I am excited for all that is to come! This upcoming weekend, we will be traveling to Machu Picchu and all the cities in between. Hopefully the weather will continue to be beautiful and the journey will be smooth! Thank you again for following along with me.