June 9: DON'T FALL!!!

Happy Sunday! I hope you've had a nice weekend. We had a truly amazing experience at Machu Picchu and the other Incan ruins and landmarks over the past few days. Here is a review of what we did and my recommendations for anyone who may consider traveling to Machu Picchu in the future.

On Friday, we left Cusco on a tour bus to Chinchero, Maras, Moray, and Ollaytatambo at 6:45am. We arrived to Chinchero around 8am, where we enjoyed a tour of the ruins as well as a textile demonstration at a local shop. It was fascinating to see how the women transformed the alpaca fur to beautifully and naturally colored alpaca yarn. All of the dyes are produced from plants or insects. My favorite dye, and the most well-known, is the red dye from an insect, the cochineal, which lives on a particular species of cactus. When alive, the cochineal appears white-green, but when it is squished, it becomes a rich red/purple that can be mixed with a number of different things to produce orange, red and purple dyes.

After Chinchero, we went to Moray, which consists of famous ruins of an Incan experimentation center for acclimating crops to different climates. It consists of four areas, each made up of several levels of circular terraces and focused on a specific climate region. For instance, one area (pictured) was protected from wind on all sides and went the deepest; this area was used for valley crops--for instance, coca and avocados--which need warmer, more humid climates. Another area was exposed to strong winds, and this was used for many types of potatoes and quinoa, which grow best at high altitudes where it is chillier and windier. The Incas used these to determine the best location to grow certain crops as well as to attempt to acclimatize the crops so that they could be grown in different areas.

Following Moray, we traveled to Maras, the salt mines, which I still love for their beauty and simplicity. It is the perfect example of how basic technology can make the best use of the natural resources. The water flows in carrying high concentrations of salt, and is channeled to fill shallow pools. During the dry season (now), these pools dry out, leaving 3 layers of salt; the bottom layer of salt is used for medicinal bath purposes, the middle layer for feeding animals, and the top layer for human consumption. Something unique to Maras is that it is still being used for its initial purpose, and still being maintained and utilized by its original population with original methods, for the most part.

After Maras, we passed through Urubamba for a delicious buffet of traditional Peruvian food and a variety of vegetables before heading to Ollaytatambo, our last stop. At Ollaytatambo, we visited the ruins, which involved a steep stair climb to the top to visit the Temple of the Sun. The ruins are significant because they are the location of a battle between the Spanish and the Incas in which the Inca town leader was forced to run from the city. Ollaytatambo is located at the intersection of two valleys; thus, he had two ways to run. One, the short way, towards Machu Picchu, and the other, the long way, to another area. Which way did he go? The long way. And thus, the Spanish never found Machu Picchu.

After Ollaytatambo, we said goodbye to our tour group, who was heading to Pisac, so that we could board our train to Aguas Calientes, the city at the base of Machu Picchu. As I mentioned before, I was super excited to ride on a train, and it absolutely lived up to my expectations (except we didn't arrive at Hogwarts). We took Inca Rail executive train, which provided comfortable seats around tables as well as a snack and drink for the hour and a half ride. It was great service and appeared slightly nicer than Peru Rail trains we saw, which cost the same amount. I'd highly recommend Inca Rail to anyone taking the train to Aguas Calientes.

We arrived to Aguas Calientes a little after 6pm and went to find our hostel. We stayed in Pirwa hostels, which was cheap and provided exactly what we needed (and nothing more). Later, we met with our tour guide for the next day at Machu Picchu and bought our bus tickets to go to Machu Picchu. We enjoyed dinner at a nearby restaurant before heading to bed to prepare for the big day on Saturday.

Saturday, we woke up at 5am and were out the door by 5:20, picking up our "snack breakfast" from the hostel desk. This "snack" was well stocked with a bologna and cheese sandwich, banana, juice box, crackers, and a candy bar. We met up with our tour group and went to wait in line for the bus. The line for the bus was long, but the time passed quickly. For the first 15 minutes, we watched the action happening across the stream, where a man had fallen several stories into the rocky stream. Several men had climbed down and were working to pull him up, out of the stream. Fortunately, the man began to move on the way out and was taken to get medical attention. After that, we talked with a man and his 11-year-old daughter. They were from Lima, and we enjoyed chatting in English and Spanish with them. They were super friendly, and it was fun to exchange our cultural experiences with them. My favorite part was hearing that the girl cared most about practicing English so that she could understand the Full/Fuller House episodes she watches on Netflix!

We boarded the bus around 7:10, about an hour and a half after we'd gotten in line. The bus ride took about 20 minutes, winding up the mountain, before arriving at Machu Picchu, where we met our actual guide. We went with him and a group of about 15 people through the ruins, taking pictures and hearing the history along the way. It was very busy in the ruins at this time but still an enjoyable experience. Also, it was the perfect day weather-wise. The sky was a vibrant blue with a few white clouds; it was warm but not hot, and slightly breezy. Our tour lasted about an hour and a half which is when we headed up to the starting point of our hike up Mountain Machu Picchu.

For clarification, Mountain Machu Picchu is not the one commonly seen in photos. That is Hauyna Picchu. Hauyna Picchu is smaller but has a steeper, narrower path, limiting the number of tickets sold. Machu Picchu Mountain is said to be a prettier view of the ruins, and you can capture Hauyna Picchu in your photos. Machu Picchu is higher, at 3,099 meters, whereas Hauyna Picchu stands at about 2,720 meters. For reference, the lowest point of the Machu Picchu ruins is about 2,400 meters.

The hike up Mountain Machu Picchu was the hardest and scariest thing I have ever done. I didn't read much about it before hiking...maybe I should have, because it is not the best for anyone who is scared of heights (like me). There are several parts that are staircases on the side of the mountain with no railing. These stairs are uneven and unlevel and on average, about 4 feet across. The hike takes most people an hour or two, and between physical and psychological difficulty, it took me about an hour and half. When I finally made it to the top, I was even more terrified because the platform was crowded, had no rails, and at times was only 4-5 feet wide. I actually crawled across the path between the larger platforms, during which I overheard the security guard telling my friends in broken English, "photo. photo. take photo." And they did. ;-)

Nevertheless, it was terrifying, but I've almost decided that it was worth it. I'd never do it again, but I'm grateful I pushed through and did it this time. If you're considering going to Machu Picchu and you're in pretty good physical shape, I'd recommend it. Even if you don't make it to the top, there are beautiful views along the way.

After hiking, we took a few more pictures and visited with some llamas before heading back to Aguas Calientes for a big, well-earned lunch and a relaxing (and chilly) visit to the hot springs. It was nice to go to the hot springs, but I recommend going when it is warmer outside (not at night) because the water isn't that warm, more like lukewarm bath water. And, after a much needed shower, pizza, and ice cream, we headed to bed for the night (before 9pm).

This morning we enjoyed breakfast at the hostel, a lovely train ride, and a quick visit to Ollaytatambo again, before heading back to Cusco in a taxi. To be honest, there isn't a lot to see in Ollaytatambo if you have already been to the ruins and don't want to hike up mountains. There were a few shops and markets that are cute but more expensive than in Cusco. We did enjoy a nice snack/brunch in Coffee Tree Cafe, where we were also able to store our backpacks, and we also found an excellent nonprofit, Awamaki, which works with surrounding villages and sells handmade woven products. And, the girl working in the shop is a graduate from University of Maryland (where Lexi goes to school) and from Atlanta, a graduate from Etowah High School, so it was fun talking to her.

Overall, it was a great, exhausting weekend! I am back up in Cusco now, resting for the week ahead and catching up with my family here. If you are planning to go on a trip to Machu Picchu, or know of someone who is, here are my tips:

1. If you're a student, make sure to get your ISIC card, which can be bought online ($20) or in Cusco ($12) with the required documents (passport, photo, evidence of enrollment in a college). This provides AMAZING discounts for Machu Picchu and the tourist ticket, along with other benefits.
2. If you want to hike Hauyna Picchu, you must buy your tickets at least two months ahead of time because they sell out quickly. 
3. Train tickets are easy to buy online; I recommend Inca Rail. We bought our Machu Picchu tickets at the official office in Cusco, which was easy and pretty quick. 
4. How to get to and from Machu Picchu from Cusco:
1. Take a taxi or colectivo from Cusco to Ollaytatambo. If you want to visit the different ruins and stops like we did, you can book a tour with almost any travel agency for S/. 85 (includes buffet lunch--worth it!) and request to stay in Ollaytatambo and not go to Pisac. Or, you can go to the Ollaytatambo bus station the morning of, and find a private taxi/tour guide to drive you (~S/.65/person, no lunch). If you don't want the extra destinations, you can find a taxi or a collectivo at the Ollaytatambo bus stations in Cusco for ~S/.10 per person. You could also take the train from Cusco straight to Aguas Calientes, but this is expensive. 
2. Take the train from Ollaytatambo to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Village). The train is fun, quick, clean, comfortable, but expensive ($55-$90 per ticket, one way). The only other option is to ride from Cusco to Hidroelectrica and walk about 2-3 hours to Aguas Calientes. 
3. Walk or take the bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu Ruins. It takes about the same amount of time to do either. 1.5 hours to walk, and 1.5 hours to wait in line and ride on the bus. If you are hiking Machu Picchu Mountain or Huayna Picchu, I recommend you take the bus both ways because you will probably not have the energy to do both. 
1. If you take the bus, you can purchase your tickets ($12 per person per way) when you arrive to Aguas Calientes. I recommend you buy them when you arrive to Aguas Calientes. We bought ours the night before going to the ruins. 
2. There isn't a good way to avoid the line for the bus, as it forms very early in the morning, so embrace it (it's a great opportunity to talk to people!) or walk.  
4. Getting back: walk or bus from Aguas Calientes. Train to Ollaytatambo where you can find plenty of taxi drivers and colectivos right by the train station, ready to offer you a ride for S/.10-15/person. 
5. Going to the Machu Picchu: 
1. Pack snacks and plenty of water. They do not sell food inside of Machu Picchu, though there is a cafe just outside (and you can reenter the park). 
2. Go to the bathroom before you enter. It costs S/. 1 just outside of the park, and there are no bathrooms inside. 
3. Wear and bring sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses. There is very little shade.
4. If you are hiking, bring bug spray. I got several bug bites, even with bug spray. 
5. During the dry season, the best time of day to be at Machu Picchu is in the morning. This is also when it is the most crowded...
6. I recommend having a tour guide at Machu Picchu, unless you are very familiar with the history. You can book a guide in advance in Cusco or Aguas Calientes, or find a private guide while you are in line for the bus (though I only saw a few guides there). We paid S/. 30 per person for an English-speaking guide for a group of 10-15 people. Some guides meet in Aguas Calientes and take the bus as a group, and others meet at the ruins, giving you the option to take the bus or walk. 
6. In Aguas Calientes:
1. Everything is more expensive, and pretty much every restaurant sells the same, semi-decent food, except for some of the really fancy restaurants. 
2. The hot springs are nice, but not worth going out of your way for. They cost S/. 20 per person, and lockers are provided for free. I recommend you bring sandals and a towel with you, as well as a change of clothes (there are changing rooms). I did not have sandals, so I went barefoot on the slippery path to the pools, and I took my towel from my hostel. If you don't have something, there are several shops near the hot springs selling/renting towels, bathing suits, and sandals.